Built the year of the uprising and named for Lord Elgin, this hill bungalow has been keeping guests for well over a century and a half. It still does — quietly, and by hand.
The house keeps its own hours. This is roughly how a day here goes — though nobody will mind if you ignore all of it.
Eggs your way, fruit from the hills and the day's first pot of tea, laid on green linen while the mist is still in the deodars.
Clipped topiary, a white picket line and cast-iron seats among the pines. Most guests get no further than the garden.
The tiered stands appear on the verandah — pound cake, muffins, finger sandwiches — poured from painted pots into English china. Served à la carte.
Continental, Chinese and Indian from the chef's kitchen, carried out to the candlelit terrace as the hills go dark.
Busts, brass globes and a telescope by the arched window. Take a book, take the last of the cocoa, take your time.
Elgin Hall was raised in 1857 and took its name from the British diplomat Lord Elgin, in the years when the northern hills served as a summer refuge from the heat of the plains. The bungalow has been restored with a deliberately light hand — the old proportions, the timber floors and the deep verandahs left as they were, with warmth and plumbing added quietly behind them.
What has not changed is the pace. Fragrant pine and towering deodar stand close to the windows. Tea arrives at four whether or not anyone asked. The fire is lit at dusk because it is always lit at dusk.
It is a small house and it is run like one — seven rooms, looked after personally, for travellers who would rather be somewhere particular than somewhere large.
Hover a name to look inside
Continental, Chinese and Indian from the chef's kitchen, with a handful of Amritsari specialities the house is quietly proud of. Vegetarian and non-vegetarian, both done properly.
See the MenuDalhousie sits in the Chamba district of Himachal Pradesh, high in the Indian Himalaya. Most international guests route through Amritsar or Delhi — tell us your flight and a car will be waiting.
Nearest international airport (ATQ). Direct services from the Gulf, the UK and Southeast Asia.
India's principal gateway (DEL), with onward flights and overnight trains running north.
The nearest railhead and airstrip — where the road begins its climb into the hills.
The Mall Road at Subhash Chowk, Moti Tiba — behind the picket fence and the pines.
English is spoken throughout the house. The Indian Rupee (INR) is the local currency; cards are accepted and ATMs are close by in Dalhousie town.
The hills stay cool through much of the year and turn genuinely cold in winter. Every room is heated — bring layers whatever the month.
Most visitors require an Indian visa or e-Visa arranged in advance. Please confirm current requirements for your nationality with your nearest Indian mission.
Tea arrives at four whether or not anyone asked, and the fire is lit at dusk because it is always lit at dusk.The house, since 1857
Seven rooms only. A note ahead of your dates is always the surest way in.